The Army That Never Left
The road west into the Highlands: Glenfinnan, a doomed rebellion, and the one thing here that never lost. The most successful army in the history of the Scottish…
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The City We’d Already Built
Edinburgh, for the first time, after years of imagining it. Your brain doesn’t keep a separate drawer for places you’ve been and…
The First Dark
Copenhagen, and the first night in a fortnight. It came with fireworks. Darkness, it turns out, is not an absence. It’s a…
Leaving the Ice
The last days in Ilulissat: a single snowflake, the smallest plane we’ve ever boarded, and the brightest dinner in Greenland. Light arrives…
The Quiet
Ilimanaq, population fifty-five. A place whose name means expectations. There’s a line in the plan for this trip, written months ago at…
The Daytime Version
Oqaatsut, a settlement of forty, twenty-two kilometres north of Ilulissat. After three nights working the midnight sun, we did a strange and…
Midnight Gold on the Ilulissat Icefjord
One midnight of gold on the Ilulissat icefjord, and a promise kept. If you’ve been travelling with us this week, you know…
The Night the Fjord Disappeared
Fog, whales, and the icebergs of Disko Bay, met one at a time. We were given his name months ago, the way…
The Town Called Icebergs
Ilulissat, Greenland. A place whose name means exactly what it says. We checked, from a boat, at midnight. Most of the names…
A Homecoming, More or Less
Copenhagen → Nuuk → Ilulissat The icecap through the window, a language we don’t speak, and a first night with no night.…
Nobody, for a While
Brisbane → Singapore → London → Copenhagen The long way to the top of the world. We left from the coast, the…