The First Dark
Copenhagen, and the first night in a fortnight. It came with fireworks. Darkness, it turns out, is not an absence. It’s a nutrient. The body runs on a…
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Leaving the Ice
The last days in Ilulissat: a single snowflake, the smallest plane we’ve ever boarded, and the brightest dinner in Greenland. Light arrives…
The Quiet
Ilimanaq, population fifty-five. A place whose name means expectations. There’s a line in the plan for this trip, written months ago at…
The Daytime Version
Oqaatsut, a settlement of forty, twenty-two kilometres north of Ilulissat. After three nights working the midnight sun, we did a strange and…
Midnight Gold on the Ilulissat Icefjord
One midnight of gold on the Ilulissat icefjord, and a promise kept. If you’ve been travelling with us this week, you know…
The Night the Fjord Disappeared
Fog, whales, and the icebergs of Disko Bay, met one at a time. We were given his name months ago, the way…
The Town Called Icebergs
Ilulissat, Greenland. A place whose name means exactly what it says. We checked, from a boat, at midnight. Most of the names…
A Homecoming, More or Less
Copenhagen → Nuuk → Ilulissat The icecap through the window, a language we don’t speak, and a first night with no night.…
Nobody, for a While
Brisbane → Singapore → London → Copenhagen The long way to the top of the world. We left from the coast, the…
The Long Way Round
Before a month on the other side of the planet, we came home to Yamba. The same stretch of coast we've been…
Bigger Than the Map
On the standard world map, Greenland looks the size of Africa. You could fit it inside fourteen times. Before a summer in…